this is the bicycle badge from the Concord Aztec 10-speed. i wonder if i can re-rivet it after i finish repainting. the bike also had a Columbus, Ohio bicycle license sticker on it from 1972 (!), but it crackled to pieces as i removed it from it’s adhesive home on the tube near the rear wheel.

choosing a color

i’ve concluded that the color “scheme” will be logical: process of elimination. my goal: no two parts shall be the same color. purple handlebars, pewter wheelset. frame, fork, crankset, chain, seat post, seat, tires, pedals, and stem will all be different. the colors will be determined by what part i need next, what is available, and what i haven’t used yet. i will also have to take into consideration that some colors for parts like cranksets may be limited, so i will avoid those colors I know are available [for cranksets] when purchasing other parts.


all-city has some nicely colored cranksets that just may fit my bicycle perfectly: square taper, 110mm, 1/8″. i ran into the abbreviation BCD and didn’t know what it meant, so i yahoo’d it (google fans, don’t hate me), and found Urban Velo’s article on it. i don’t think it’s something i have to worry about at this stage in the game.


yesterday, i ordered a track cog (17t), anodized purple handlebars, and a lockring. all from eighthinch using the birthday money my sister and her husband gave me. i was having trouble deciding between 1/8″ or 3/32″ chain/cog sizing, and the more research i did, i found the availability to be about the same. i finally went with the 1/8″ sizing. my reasoning: since my knowledge on fixies is limited, i’d play it safe – definitely knew that  an eighthinch wheelset would match with their branded cogs, and i also like the idea of intermingling with the track bicycle world, which also uses 1/8″ sizing chains, chainrings and cogs.

i chose a 17-tooth cog because when i was reading descriptions of people’s posts on fixedgeargallery i found that most either had 16 or 18-tooth cogs. once again, beginner’s wisdom (if there is such a thing) says to go with one of those two, but since i didn’t know the difference, i slid right in between. before i ordered, i counted the bicycle’s cog teeth: 28, 24, 20, 16, and 12. the chainwheel’s small wheel had 40 teeth on it, giving my bicycle a 2/1 gear ratio on my most comfortable setting.  sheldon brown’s site talks a little about gearing, and on one of his pages said something about a three-to-one  gear ratio. that would mean a 51-tooth chainwheel for my 17-tooth cog, but i think i’ll go with either 48 or 46 for starters. that bridge has yet to crossed

links to parts

one of the difficulties with living in a small town is that bicycle parts are few and far between. this goes for bicycle shops as well. bumping around on the internet has led me to some helpful places. i’ll continue to post links as i run across them. that will keep this non-photo blog a little more interesting. today:




i have found a small creative niche in the world where form meets function, but the artistic opportunity is the standard: fixed gear bicycles, also known as fixies.

i am converting my dad’s old, orange Concord Aztec 10-speed into a fixie, at the thought of making it into a ride-able work of art.  this page will document that effort. it will be more like a journal.

christmas 2009 – mom and dad bought me a fixed hub wheelset from eighthinch as a combined Christmas/birthday gift.

dec. 2009 – Larry helped me take apart just about everything, the wheels, derailleurs, shifters, brakes, seat, handlebars, crankset, and bottom bracket.

jan.2010 – my sister and her husband gave me $20 for the conversion as a birthday gift!

fri, 5 feb 2010 – visited K&G bicycle center, shop in centerville, ohio, and they removed the fork, and we talked bottom brackets (bb). we concluded: english threading bb, 73mm long, and square taper bb is needed. the crankset needs to match this, so we have to look at that measurement, which he thought the best i could do would be 110mm, even though most bb’s listed in his catalog read 109mm or 103mm. he suggested i visit brian at the K&G in kettering who deals a lot with fixies. drove there. he affirmed what i needed, but said the biggest concern is getting a straight chainline.  that means first things first: buy a cog and a lockring for the real wheel, determine the chainline, then pick a crankset and bb to fit that.

sun, 7 feb 2010 – sat in my bedroom and removed all the decals from the frame and fork. ready to sand and paint!

tues, 8 feb 2010so i just learned that crankset measurement that K&G told me are based on the length of the bb tube (73mm) and the bolt circle diameter (110mm) according to surly bikes, and I read about their product ‘mr. whirly crank,’ to get more info.